I have lived in Gurgaon for 24 years now. College felt like it might be an escape. But four years in America, made me want to return more and more. I have seen Gurgaon grow. From its claim to be a “millennium city,” almost a decade before, it could be called that to political rationales to now change the city’s name to Gurugram.

I moved to the city in 1999. Back then, living in Gurgaon brought with it no sense of pride. I lived in a not-so-fancy DLF phase III. The home overlooked a wheat farm near a swamp land plot where I learned to ride horses. Today that plot of land is one-half of what is known as Cyberhub — the largest IT hub in North India. It’s fascinating to see a city grow. As the malls came in with huge movie theatres and departmental stores, so did our tastes and preferences. In many ways, my preferences for food have grown with the city’s trends. In the early 2000s, Pizza Hut and McDonald’s were the biggest craze. Every kid wanted their birthday parties there, and each space offered its own style of fun.

In the 2010s, as Indians started traveling to South East Asia, Asian food boomed all over. Yo China was the biggest brand at the time. The restaurant functioned like a sit-down space that quickly franchised everywhere. The one thing that it made popular was the honey chili glazed snacks. These were batter-fried carbs or proteins that were then mixed in with a magical sauce that was both sweet and spicy at the same time. The most popular among them were crispy honey chili potatoes. There was a time when I loved them. They were sweet at the start, but as you broke it down the taste turned up in heat, with the only respite being popping in another spud until you realised the vicious cycle you’re in. As the years turned, Yo China seemed to become more obscure. The city developed new trends, and new flavours took over. Today, you see this dish in popular “classic” Asian restaurants that revel in the nostalgia of the old days. Another popular spot for these seems to be cheap bars where the same vicious cycle can only be broken by beer — the true main dish of any bar.

These honey chili lotus stem chips are an homage to the old-style honey chili potatoes but elevated throughout the process. The elevation here isn’t one that mocks the audience that loves these potatoes but celebrates lovers of that flavour profile. Lotus root is practically flavourless, filled with moisture, and very easy to slice wafer-thin. This makes it the perfect carrier of flavour. I air-fried our carriers because it reduces the amount of oil needed and also because this recipe comes from Natasha’s Rolodex of treats, which always has an air-fryer element. Additionally, instead of using a hot sauce, my glaze is made with some raw honey and homemade chilli oil. This becomes another important difference that takes our cherished flavours out of the 2010s to something we will enjoy now in 2023. I hope you try this recipe, and as always, happy cooking!

Glimpses from the week

Ingredients

1-2 lotus stem tubers, sliced thin

1 teaspoon red chili powder

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons onion powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons veggie oil

For the glaze

1 tablespoon chili oil

1/2 tablespoon honey

For the chili oil

2 medium red onions, thinly sliced

1 head of garlic, separated into cloves, sliced

1½ cups vegetable oil

2 3” cinnamon sticks

6 star anise pods

1 2” piece ginger, peeled, very finely chopped

¼ cup crushed red pepper flakes

2 Tbsp. soy sauce

2 tsp. sugar

Method

1. Start by peeling the tubers and chop them into two halves. Cut the bottoms and wash the tubers thoroughly. Slice on the sharpest setting on the mandolin. If you are cutting with a knife, I suggest soaking the chips in warm water for 30 minutes to par-cook the chips.

2. In a bowl, add the chips along with the spices and oil. Mix well.

3. Preheat your air fryer to 180 degrees Celsius and place the chips in batches into the basket. Space the chips to prevent layering. This will reduce the chances of chips getting soggy. Keep in the fryer for 12 minutes. Check-in once at the 6-minute mark.

4. Once fried, let the chips cool for 5 minutes, and then in bowl, mix well with honey and my homemade chili oil. The complete process can be found here.

5. Finish with a garnish of sesame seeds and spring onions.